Tim (my brother) found a good manual for the Greddy Turbo online. Reading through it was quite instructive. Some highlights are that it was designed to run with a completely stock Miata, no drilling or bending or breaking of existing parts. It runs at 5psi and the kit includes an interesting fuel regulator just past the injectors to maintain fuel pressure at boost (I think). Last, it is CARB exempt and is legal in CA to run on the street!
Yesterday we also went through what is necessary to take out and plug the power steering. This is not a huge deal, though some people go all out and hollow out the whole thing. I think for our purposes, just removing the pump/reservoir and re-routing the lines should be enough. We also removed the airbag (don't forget to disconnect the battery) and are looking forward to finding a nice cheap steering wheel.
We also took a quick glance at the A/C. I've been reading up on how to remove the condenser as well as the heat-pump itself. The biggest challenge looks to be just removing the lines cleanly.
More to come soon I hope!
Ps
2 comments:
>> ...includes an interesting fuel regulator just past the injectors to maintain fuel pressure at boost (I think).
My JR Supercharger has the same setup. The argument goes something like this: the fuel map in the stock ECU can't keep the stock injectors open long enough to get enough fuel into the engine when the boost is high. Boost + lean == BAD.
The obvious solution to that problem is to install a high pressure fuel pump which will push more fuel through those tiny little injectors in the 'normal' cycle. Works great under boost, but now the car runs way too rich under non-boost conditions because the stock ECU can't keep them closed long enough.
And that is where this "boost sensitive" fuel pressure regulator comes in to play. It keeps the fuel pressure low under non-boost conditions so the stock ECU can keep the car lean but allows the pressure to rise in the fuel rail under boost so the engine gets enough gas to mix with all that extra air.
One downside to this combination is that the adjustable boost sensitive regulator made my car a bitch to tune. I had a hard time finding that sweet spot that would let me run rich (but not too rich) at boost without flooding the car at idle. Of course, I was running a big crank pulley and a tiny snout pulley which pushed the boost to 13.5 lbs. That just wasn't working out with the stock ECU. Or valves. Or intercooler (which was nonexistent) or oil cooler (also nonexistent) or...
Which brings me to the best (non $500 car) solution. The best way to go is to install a high pressure pump, remove the variable regulator and replace the stock ECU with a Link (or other) race computer that is fully mappable. (Removing the variable regulator is important when installing the fully mappable ECU. It is hard to get the fuel map in the Link ECU correct right while the regulator is constantly adjusting the fuel pressure. Grrr.)
The down side, aside from cost, is that this is totally non-OBDC II compliant and has to be undone every year for smog. Assuming that someone were to do this to a registered street car and drive it on the road. Which would be illegal and bad. So nobody I know would ever do it. Ever.
Cool, thanks for the info.
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